The Future of Fashion series brings you interviews with emerging designers, from across the globe, who The New Edit believe will be the leading voices of Fashion in the Future.

London, United Kingdom

Future of Fashion: The Designer Short

Daniel Pascal Tanner is part of a new wave of British designers who are championing a more local design process. His collections are designed and handmade in London for the Elegant and Eccentric. Inspired by historical fashion and his own background as a dancer in a number of West End Shows, Daniel creates unforgettable, conversational pieces for the Modern Romantic Muse.  He strives to preserve the sentiment and story of historical silhouettes whilst interpreting them through a contemporary lens. Daniel’s ability to create bold, colourful and elegant pieces often with brilliant patterns have drawn people to his work. But, it is his ability to modernize historical styles and silhouettes to create unforgettable garments that blend the line between modernity and antiquity which makes him the Future of Fashion. 

Future of Fashion: The Interview

It is a difficult time. How are you? How are you coping?  It is a great time to recharge and make a plan for moving forward.  It has given me a chance to reflect on the progress I have made and on areas for improvement.  The way the fashion industry is, with seasons being so close together, it often feels like you are falling out of one season and into another, constantly jumping from one collection to the next.  So, this really is a good time to press pause, reorganise, recalibrate and understand how you want to move forward.  

You grew up with a theatrical background. How has that shaped your design?  At the heart of theatre is the player/performer, it’s all about people and stories! The costumes illuminate the story just as fashion can visually pinpoint specific times in history.  Performers are complex creatures and masters of mannerism, expression and movement. Every company or production I worked for was set in a different period in history.  The physical duality of “playing” in one era whilst living in another has definitely influenced me. For example when I was a dancer in the West End production of The Phantom Of The Opera, during the 30 minute interval break backstage, the cast would go about their business half in costume from the 1900’s and half in modern clothing! It was a lot of fun! Looking back I can see how this constant bricolage of different characteristics, costumes and clothing in rehearsal and work life, influences the way I put looks together today.

You recently collaborated with Liberty London. How did that come about?  The initial opportunity to collaborate with Liberty London came through Rob Phillips, who’s the The Artistic Director of The School of Art & Design at The London College of Fashion.  I was a very hard working, passionate student and I was in my last year and I got offered the opportunity to open the 2014 press show for LCF.  Rob was an incredible mentor for me, in helping me gain confidence in my work.  I was really excited to participate in the collaboration. The project was a perfect fit for my aesthetic and I went on to work with Liberty as part of the Liberty Discovers Programme for three consecutive seasons.  The collaboration itself caught the attention of Lee Lapthorne who invited me to showcase a full collection at LFW with ON|OFF.

“My pieces are infused with their own story.  However, the real pleasure comes from seeing my clients integrate pieces with their own wardrobe and identity. The garments then become part of a new story of eclectic references which are unique to each woman”

Feminism is a prevailing theme in inspiring much of your work.  Is it a key value of your brand?  I certainly see a responsibility as being a man designing for women - it is something that I hold in my being and my design.  As such I will never design anything overly sexualised.  I tend to style things in shows and looks in a modest way but it is really nice to then see your customer do what they want with it.  I do feel a responsibility especially in the current climate and conversation.  I grew up in a family full of women and I have the most upward respect and love for growing up around so many women so for me it is about revering not exploiting. 

Another important value of your brand is  local design and production. Tell us more.  I am very passionate about doing things in a thoughtful way and championing British Design. Currently my studio is in London, I work with a factory in London for production, the corduroy I source is from the UK, I work with Liberty fabric, the place I get the fabric printed is in the UK and the home centered-ness of my brand is something I want to maintain as I grow.

What have been the biggest challenges you have faced as a designer?  Finding the sweet spot between creativity and the art of commerce! Entering the market for wholesaling with the right price point is challenging for any new designer.  I have  been fortunate to be taken under the wing of Angela Quaintrell who has over 30 years experience as a buyer and Paris Showroom Director.  Angela has mentored many successful designers and helped them make a success of selling their collections internationally.  This season Daniel Pascal Tanner has featured in Vogue Italia,  L’Officiel Paris, Harper's Bazaar and I hope that in the rest of 2020 I will continue featuring in and collaborating with amazing publications. 

“The New Edit platform puts a spotlight on independent labels like mine and gives newer designers the opportunity to display their work and also to tell their story”

How can The New Edit help?  I felt the New Edit was a really nice way for designers to connect with an audience.  I think it's still a really lovely refreshing platform for an audience to discover something, follow something and for you to introduce yourself slowly and grow things really organically.  Also as a designer, producing your collection and getting it out there is really difficult and The New Edit platform puts a spotlight on independent labels like mine and gives newer designers the opportunity to display their work and also to tell their story.

Who wears Daniel Pascal Tanner?  Women who love vibrant colour and print and are confident in how they compose their outfits and in personal style identity.  My pieces are infused with their own story.  However, the real pleasure comes from seeing my clients integrate pieces with their own wardrobe and identity. The garments then become part of a new story of eclectic references which are unique to each woman. Essentially it’s about having fun and taking pride in who you are, or who you choose to be, remembering that, in the words of William Shakespeare “All the world’s a stage, And all the men and women are merely players.”

Written by Samson Royston, May 2020

Check out our recent interview with Shivangi Sahni and Rose Danford-Phillips to learn more about the talented designers from The New Edit's Future of Fashion series.